I got up as soon as the sun was shining into the garden as I needed to dry my camping gear, especially the sopping wet outer shell of my tent.
Once that placed in the sun and most packed up I went for a delicious breakfast.
By the time I finished breakfast the tent was dry and I could finish my packing up. On my way out I just made the most out of the wifi ordering an eSIM for Uganda and topping up my Wise account. I want to be prepared to use my Visa card as much as possible at the border instead of my USD notes as I am surely will need them more in Zimbabwe!
About 11h00 I finally hit the road towards Suam border. It was a nice scenery especially towards the border.
Leaving Kenya was fast and efficient. I learned that I could have left Kenya e.g. to Tanzania to come back. I heard different that I didn't do it whilst I was in the South...
I was happy that I managed to get rid of all my KSH and transferred all my money on Mpesa to Damian as I still owed him money. Sitting at customs to get my exit stamp I still find 300KSH between my bike documents 🙄 I had placed them there in case I get stopped by the police...
After all stamped and I signed out I went to the Ugandian side. All in the process of construction for a bigger border post. First I had to get my Visa (on arrival),which was fast and easy. As still under construction I only vould pay 50USD in cash. Then I was guided upstairs to sort out my bike. The guy signed my carnet and then said I need to pay TIP - What 😳😳, you just signed the carnet and now wants TIP??? And I am not getting it back on exiting? That's a bit weird...so I send out in WhatsApp in the overlander group my equivalent request as it dawned me it could be the road tax. Luckily someone confirmed that. I asked the customs officer and it was that - phew, one problem resolved. But immediately appeared the next: payment!! They don't take USD, only UGX or KSH 😳😳, which I was so proud of getting rid off this morning (even though my gutt feeling told me differently; should haven listening to it 🙄). So one of the boys took me into the village to a pay booth, but the lady doesn't take USD and the card machine no Visa 😳 And now? Off to the money exchange across the road. The guy just having his lunch. He said he stopped taking USD some time ago, but he could change me KSH ... 🙄 I seem not to get anywhere...and next ATM is 70km away! So we went back to the customs building and after some chatting the guy from the Visa department was stepping in. He could change me 100USD, but I would have to wait someone bringing the UGX. Luckily with my app on the phone we had no problem to set the rate. Whilst I had to wait, I ate the buiscit/cake I bought 2 days ago in Kitale - luckily I still had it! Also did I already sort out the check in with the health department about my yellow fever vaccination.
After a while the customs officer asked if he could change only the requested road tax as it would still take a while until the money arrives. We worked out an amount to make it good for boths of us, 65USD and he still had to give me 10k UGX (plus paying the TIP).
Finally after 3 hours I had all my documents sorted and could head of to Sipi Falls, I had booked Rock Garden Guesthouse for 2 nights, so I could still arrive late without worrying pitching up a tent.
It was such a lovely road, twisty through the mountains and villages - and not too many speed bumps!!
In Kapchorwa I remembered to go to the ATM that was marked on iOverlander. Once I had some cash, I tried my luck with an airtel SIM card just across the road. What a procedere, but unfortunately no luck; apparently the system down. So I will have to come back tomorrow. It was already after 17h00 and I still got good 30mins to my accomodation- and I want to arrive at daylight!
The last stretch was offroad on a road I don't want to do after or during (heavy) rain 😳 at one point I asked an upcoming car if that was the correct way as I don't want to turn around.... it was, and a young man behind me said he is on the way to it. So I carried on and saw him hopping on a Boda Boda following us. Finally I arrived at Rock Garden Sipi where I got a lovely welcome by Alex, the owner.
As I got a WhatsApp message shortly after my booking, I requested the possibility about a hiking tour to the Sipi Falls, the young man was the guide to offer his services. Perfect! He offered a combined tour of Sipi Falls and Cafe Experience for 50 USD for the whole day. First I was a bit surprised by the price but as it is all day...And as Noel (the guide) already got clients booked for tomorrow afternoon we got it split into 2 days. So tomorrow morning at 9am we will meet for the cafe tour.
Then I finally could do the check in and ordering some food - a Rolex! A Rolex is Chapati with egg and most overlander recommend it!
And I got with it a huge portion of avocado 😋
Later the evening I enjoyed Alex and his workers around the fire pit gor a while - he had some good stories to tell!
The next morning, after a huge breakfast, Noel picked me up on time. We walked off through the community. It was local paths through private premises, which was really nice. Finally we reached the plantation of Joel for the Cafe Experience.
He explained and demonstrated me in the next 90mins (or so) the steps from the collected fruit until the finished cup of cafe. It included separating the beans from the fruit, roasting it (very meditative) to grinding it. A long, hard working process - in the good old days. So next time I will throw a Nespresso capsule in my machine at home, I will remember the hard work!
Then we went to the village to the local airtel SIM card seller, where we first had to wait for the delivery of a card 😳 Then we could start the process which is a long one:
1st needs the agent register with his finger print and information, then my fingerprint, passport number, expiry date of Visa (what are 3 months of my entry date?🤔🤔), name, date of birth, picture of my passport, picture of me holding up the SIM, picture of my Visa stamp and then wait ... to find out after 2 mins that it is an invalid expiring date for my Visa 🤔😳 We both scratched our heads and tried a different date, meaning all the procedure described above again! With the result "invalid date" 😳😳 We tried exactly 3 months, 90 days and the dates in between without any success 🤔🤔 and of course no helpline to call!! Finally Noel, my guide, felt pity with me and rang his brother to step in. After 10mins he appeared and he had also to go through above procedure to finally getting a SIM card for me. Of course registered in his name. Once that was sorted the guy set me up with the payment app airtel (like mpesa in Kenya), but he put a PIN for me ,which I didn't like at all!! I asked him to change, but only possible after 24 hrs, so I will come back tomorrow! Originally I planned to deposit money on it through him, but I felt now uncomfortable! Have to do so on my way to Jinja or Kampala.
On top he asked me for 20k USX for his service - I was a bit cought in surprise, also as I still have no clue about the rate. However, it was good 2 hours for him working on it...and in then it was just about €5.
I walked back with Noel to the Guesthouse as he was picking up his next client for the Cafe Experience. On the way up he told me tomorrow we would hike the waterfalls snd the last one would be abseiling 😳😱 Seriously!!
We agreed to meet again at 9am, and I would be with him and this client from the afternoon, an Israelian "boy".
The afternoon I was just lazy catching up on messages and reading books.
The next morning Noel picked up me and the Israelian boy Amit. We hiked through the community up to the first, highest waterfall. That was really impressive - and very wet with the water spray 😅
After taking our pictures we hiked down to the next level. On one of the next lower levels it was very slippery due to the water. Suddenly I found myself on my butt - luckily nothing hurt! When we carried on walking I realised I gashed my elbow, not much, but was a bit bleeding 🙄 Luckily got some tissue to clean and stop the bleeding.
And then we reached the last one, where we hot geared up for abseiling 😱🫣 We got a good introduction and then Amit went first down....and after a while it was my turn 😱
Am I really doing that? I must be insane!! First it was baby steps along the wall, only difficulty was climbing over the bars. But suddenly there was no more wall and i was hanging in my gear - or hanging on for my dear life 😱😵💫😱 It was now all about trust, in the gear and the guys up there, and not panicking! So I tried to distract myself singing 🫣🤭, glad nobody could hear it 😅 Definitely I couldn't look down, but trying to "enjoy" the view. However, I was happy, when they "fished" me out of the water. I MADE IT!! Would I do it again - NO!! Iwas so happy to be back on my feets, on the ground!! Especially after finding out that was about 100m 😱😱
Then it was time to "climb up" back to the village. Climbing as the community paths here are very steep - the locals do it various times per day, normally carrying things on their head!!
Back at the village we met again Noel, and our gear. After a short break, we walked back to the Guesthouse. Well, I stopped at the sirtel booth to sort out the PIN though.
The rest of the afternoon was relaxing and I decided to stay another day and night 😁🤩 in order to catch up on social media, washing and just relaxing.
The next morning, when Noel picked up some clients for the abseiling, he wanted to talk to me 😳🤔
He said I still would have to pay for the abseiling as it was not in the package - WTF!! I really felt like a Mzungu " milking cow"!! I gave him a mouthful as he was the one mentioning in the "What we do" the abseiling!! I wouldn't have even considered it - and he never said a word of an additional fee!! Out of good will, teeth gritting though, I paid another USD20 instead of requested USD50. That was another one after the Masaai story in Kenya that really pisses me off about them thinking "all Mzungu got money"!!!
On the last evening we sat around the fire pit with a lovely Israelian couple, and we all had funny stories to share - until nearly midnight 😁